That Libélula is at the very end of Tulum’s hotel zone is fitting, because to get there you have to first drive through the craziness of the tourist shops, trendy beach clubs, conglomerate-owned restaurants screaming themes like they’re in a Vegas casino, jungle-themed all-inclusives trying to outdo actual jungle across the road, and all the rest before you enter the gates of the Sian Ka’an reserve, and suddenly everything is calm.
You will know you’re somewhere special even before you hear the ocean. After ringing the bell at the giant wooden door, you’ll be greeted by the warmly mysterious Jorge who, if he told you you’d just reached the end of the world, would be easily believable. You’ll take your shoes off and never put them on again. Wave to the kitchen staff. And walk through endangered palm trees to your room, which I should probably mention has really good bath products, since this is a hotel review afterall.
Libélula is everything the monstrosities up the road, by design, cannot be. It’s small, truly personalized, and authentically Tulum. Jorge and his staff have mastered the art of hospitality—not the US “customer is always right” hospitality or Asian pomp-and-circumstance hospitality, but the familial familiarity of Mexican hospitality: The staff will tell you “welcome home,” you’ll be invited to eat dinner wherever you want on the grounds, and when you order breakfast you’ll be greeted by the charming Manseur, who makes you feel as though you woke up at your favorite uncle’s hacienda and fresh cornbread just came out of the oven (and often, it really has). If you’re lucky, Karla, Libelula’s owner, will be on-site to say hello and brighten your day.
The beach experience is nothing short of idyllic. More than half the crowd are day-pass locals, either groups of friends or families, but you could hardly call it a crowd. The waves are generous but not overwhelming. Lounge bed service is attentive. The food is consistently amazing, and the ratio of forks to napkins, perfect. Sometime around lunch the staff drags a speaker to the beach and you find out they also have impressive taste in vibey beach music. Make sure to stay for the beautiful sunset over Sian Ka’an.
I especially recommend Libélula for solo travelers—when I was visiting, I was one of many. The rooms feel secluded and it’s easy to get time alone, but the communal tables have the sociable feeling of a hostel for people 35+. There were lots of friendly folks to chat with, none more so than the staff (who, luckily for me, spoke excellent English). They make you feel like you’re staying with friends or family in ways that truly impressed. A small example: one afternoon I off-handedly told head bartender Armando that I had bought some dresses in town that day, and when I wore one to dinner that night he remembered and asked if it was new. When traveling by yourself, interactions like this can make all the difference between a trip where you feel disconnected and one where you feel nourished and relaxed.
To that end, the scene at night at the tiny bar in the sand is not to be missed. Jorge, Armando, and bartender Sam not only make great drinks but tell great stories that get everyone laughing together. If philosophical bartenders, sexy bartenders, or shoulder-to-cry-on bartenders are more your speed, they morph effortlessly, making every evening like a dinner party where you know something interesting is going to happen, but you’re not sure what.
The magic of Libélula means giving up some conveniences. You will wait for your food to be cooked fresh. You probably won’t get a consistently hot shower. Every six hours, the entire place loses electricity for five minutes so the generators can be switched. If you want a luxury hotel where you’re unlikely to catch a whiff of cigarette smoke, accidentally get sand in your bed, or see the staff’s tattoos, it’s not for you. But that’s ok—you can go to the Secrets up the road and leave perfect little Libélula for the rest of us.
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